Variations
When I find a sewing pattern that suits my style I often challenge myself to make the pattern multiple times. I call this process Variations.
In design school, it was common to see an assignment that included the phrase At Least Three. That meant that we had to come up with three different approaches to a design problem, and investigate the merits and disadvantages of each one. We couldn’t make a decision about which one of these options was the winner before looking deep into the others and weighing the merits of each scheme.
Even now in professional practice, I still come up with multiple variations of a design to test out. This can mean coming up with different planning strategies for a new building to include more patient screening rooms instead of a spacious waiting room. It might mean different furniture layouts of a children’s room at the library, with shared reading tables vs movable clusters of seating, or maybe different material palettes for an interior finish concept. Often the variations reveal that each option has its merits, and I’ll need to decide which one of these qualities I value the most.
This idea of comparing the options also applies to my sewing practice. After I am done sewing a few variations on a pattern, I’ll try them on one after another and compare the merits of each. I might have changed one thing in Version 2 and only now realize that it was better to retain that element when I compare it to Version 1. This is when I can reflect on why something works or not and really distill the design down to the most important factors. Maybe it was the pockets that made the pants wearable, or the french seams that made the top luxurious and something I reach for to wear on special occasions.
Whether in work or sewing, I find that the first version of what I make is often not the best one. The first is the one where I get to hone my technique and practice the process of making. Knowing that I’m going to make another option relieves the pressure of having to get it right the first time. If I’m sewing, I know that I’ll work out a better fit and smooth out the construction issues in my next version. Working on my next variation gives me time to think of ways to improve the process of sewing and provides me with time to find inspiration in things that are not immediate to the making. It is a welcome challenge to come up with different ways of making the same pattern, and a limited set of options - working with the same pattern, picking from my fabric stash- is freeing.
Here are some types of variations that I like to play with in sewing the same pattern:
Fitting- not only adjustments to fit, but sizing down or up for a different silhouette
Using different types of fabrics and fabric prints
Cutting pattern pieces on the cross grain or bias
Experimenting with different construction techniques. What happens if you put the interfacing on the outside layer of the collar? What happens if you sew the side seams before the inseam? I like to understand firsthand why one process is recommended over another by testing both ways out for myself
Using different seam finishes
Hacking the pattern to add/remove length
Hacking the pattern to add or remove volume
Hacking the pattern to change the shape of the collar, neckline or hem
Deconstructing an existing garment and using the fabric to sew
Adding embellishments- piping, applique, ruffles
I also challenge myself to put the pattern away after I make Variation 5, so I can go explore something new!